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Sunday, 26 September 2010
Check out my Ride!
Sunday, 19 September 2010
The Cols
Start - St Jean de Luz - on the Atlantic
Day 1
Col de St Ignace - 169m
Col d'Osquich - 495m
End - Arette
Day 2
Col de Marie Blanque - 1035m
Col d'Aubisque - 1709m
Col de Soulor - 1525m
End - Aregeles-Gazost
Day 3
Col du Tourmalet - 2115m
Col d'Aspin - 1489m
End - Arreau
Day 4
Col de Peyresourde - 1569m
Col des Ares - 797m
Col de Buret - 598m
Col de Portet d'Aspet - 1069m
End - St Girons
Day 5
Col des Caugnous - 947m
Col de Port - 1250m
End - l'Hospitalet pres l'Andorre
Day 6
Col de Puymorens - 1920m
Col Rigat - 1493m
Col de la Perche - 1579m
End - Prades
Day 7
Col de Ternere - 233m
A statistical retrospective
Day 1
Distance - 84.0 miles
Time on the move - 6:44
Vertical ascent - 5433ft
Average speed - 12.4mph
Maximum speed - 30.5mph
End of day elevation - 1073ft
Day 2
Distance - 57.0 miles
Time on the move - 6:08
Vertical ascent - 7131ft
Average speed - 9.2mph
Maximum speed - 35.2mph
End of day elevation - 1520ft
Day 3
Distance - 52.7 miles
Time on the move - 6:29
Vertical ascent - 7300ft
Average speed - 8.0mph
Maximum speed - 30.2mph
End of day elevation - 2391ft
Day 4
Distance - 73.2 miles
Time on the move - 7:13
Vertical ascent - 6370ft
Average speed - 10.2mph
Maximum speed - 33.7mph
End of day elevation - 1318ft
Day 5
Distance - 64.9 miles
Time on the move - 6:18
Vertical ascent - 5971ft
Average speed - 10.2mph
Maximum speed - 27.2mph
End of day elevation - 4737ft
Day 6
Distance - 58.6 miles
Time on the move - 4:32
Vertical ascent - 3511ft
Average speed - 12.8mph
Maximum speed - 33.3mph
End of day elevation - 1197ft
Day 7 (to Cerbere, end of the route)
Distance - 58.7 miles
Time on the move - 4:11
Day 7 total
Distance - 66.0 miles
Time on the move - 4:54
Vertical ascent - 2259ft
Average speed - 13.4mph
Maximum speed - 35.1mph
End of day elevation - 0ft
Trip statistics
Distance - 456.4 miles
Time on the move 42:17
Vertical ascent - 37,975ft
Average speed - 10.8mph
Saturday, 18 September 2010
tourmalet - sing along
there aint no mountain high enough, Tour-ma, Tour-ma
all this cycling makes you buff, Tour-ma, Tour-ma-let!
Tour-ma, Tour-ma-let! Tour-ma, Tour-ma-let!
aint no mountain high enough, Tour-ma, Tour-ma-let!
cyclists need a hearty meal, cass-ou, cass-ou
easier said than done i feel, cass-ou, cass-ou-let!
cass-ou, cass-ou-let! cass-ou, cass-ou-let!
easier said than done i feel, cass-ou, cass-ou-let!
the breakfasts here are very mean, petit, petit
un croissant et une tartine: petit déjeuner!
petit déjeuner! petit déjeuner!
un croissant et une tartine: petit déjeuner!
drink it black or send it back, thé-au, thé-au,
tea with milk they just can't hack, thé-au, thé-au-lait!
thé-au, thé-au-lait! thé-au, thé-au-lait!
drink it black or send it back, thé-au, thé-au-lait!
at night we like to have a drink, vin-de, vin-de,
cheaper than milk - don't ask, don't think - vin-de, vin-de-pays!
vin-de, vin-de-pays! vin-de, vin-de-pays!
we cyclists sure do like a drink, vin-de, vin-de-pays!
come, let's celebrate in song: cab-a, cab-a,
the bikergroove sing along: cab-a, cab-a-ret!!
cab-a, cab-a-ret! cab-a, cab-a-ret!
We're home so put the kettle on: cab-a, cab-a-ret!
Fin (and Gin)
Cerbere is 4km from the Spanish border and light years away from civilisation. It was marginally better than arriving in John o'Groats but that's not too prestigious an accolade. We were especially put out to find that the "crowds" lining the road for the last 200 yards were there not to welcome us (indeed the triumphal reception we'd planned didn't quite go off) but were rather watching the construction of a sea wall. Out of all proportion to the town's size or likely importance, these prodigious works were providing employment for almost half the regional workforce and entertainment for the rest. See Luke's reaction in the video.
So we backtracked to Banyuls-sur-mer. There is marginally more to this place, not least the eponymous local vin which is a cross between sherry and tawney port - and very quaffable. Which is just as well because no sooner had we parked our bikes and peeled off our Lycra but the heavens did well and truly open.
Twas a bummer, but it reminded us of our tremendous good fortune hitherto. While on the road we had no rain, no bike trouble, no punctures, no detours; Luke did a magnificent job navigating and not once did we get lost. And Saturday afternoon it cheered up sufficiently for us to splash about in the Mediterranean as though this had been, after all, a holiday.
More thoughts, pix and stats when we get home
Xx
Wednesday, 15 September 2010
We write to you from what feels like our Embassy in Prades. We're staying in a beautiful 1870s mansion 5 minutes walk from the centre of Prades, which comes complete with colonnade, swimming pool, verandah, an acre of luscious grounds, a shower which actually works and English hosts.
Our breakfast this morning was a similar experience to our dinner last night - a couple of toasted slices of stale baguette each, washed down with an apathetic cup of tea. And no chance of extra. Despite being inadequately fueled, we conquered Col de Puymorens (1490m) and Col de la Perche (1500m). After lunch we enjoyed the pay-off for yesterday, which was 25miles of constant downhill - nothing but applying the brakes occasionally for well over an hour. And to top it all, we ended up somewhere where the English language is spoken by choice.
Despite being saddle sore, we are both sad that there are only 60 miles to go. At the same time, we are both looking forward to not having to strap ourselves into lycra early in the morning, instead we shall luxuriate on the beach with only carafes of wine and slabs of brie to get us through the last couple of days.
More pictures to come.
L+M
Tuesday, 14 September 2010
River deep, mountain high
The place we're staying in is like Fawlty Towers crossed with Last of the Summer Wine. It's run by a chap in his late forties, with three old women in aprons in tow. While he does everything from greeting the guests, cooking the food, pouring the drinks manning reception and clearing plates, they waddle round being distinctly unhelpful. Clearly one is his dotty old mother, and the other two are stray guests who never quite left. The long and short of which to say is that we have had a minescule meal which hasn't even touched the sides. Needless to say, more wine was ordered to compensate and we both spent the meal in stitches thinking of Basil, Sybil and Mrs Tibbs.
Yesterday was great fun - we had wheels rolling at 8:20 and conquered Col du Peyresourde (sp?) and Col de Portet d'Aspet. 75 miles down the track we stopped at the charming town of St Girons twinned with Chernobyl (and about as lively). We managed to find an epic meal despite this, and had our best breakfast so far (though still missing bacon, eggs, sausages etc) this morning.
Again with wheels rolling at 8:20, today we climbed Col de Port, descended into the charming town of Tarascon (nothing like ascending 2400ft just to end up 400ft higher at the bottom than when you started), before spending the afternoon travelling 30miles uphill and climbing to 4700ft, where we encountered this ludicrous hostelry.
As a side issue, having made it here to a hamlet so small, we were so tired and desperate for accommodation that we wondered in to the first place we saw, which happened to be the one out of the two which we hadn't booked... But that's 65 miles of cycling and sore buttocks for you.
Another enormous Col to go tomorrow (Puynorens) then gradually down, back to sea level. Though if the breakfast is anything like the dinner, we may have to stay here another day just to take in enough calories.
As the Reverend Mother once encouraged us to do in song, Climb Every Mountain - so far we have... more soon.
L+M
Sunday, 12 September 2010
Tourma-Tourmalet
Still alive. We found without doubt the worst mountain top restaurant today. Imagine, if you will, spending two and a half hours climbing at 4mph up a slope with an average gradient of 1:12, reaching 7500ft only to find that the restaurant at the top takes decades to take your order, serves you minescule portions, only has a female toilet (no soap or hand drier) and point blank refuses to fill your water bottles. That was Col du Tourmalet.
That said, the way up was stunning beyond description (the ski lifts started half way up), and in beautiful sunshine. The way down was marred slightly by thick fog, cold air and consequent shivering. After that, another col - this time Col d'Aspin, up to 4885ft.
Clearly some locals decided to challenge the Tourmalet restaurant for worst hospitality of the region, for having arrived at our destination, Arreau (after 50 of the toughest miles we have ever done), we found that there were three hotels. One was closed, though saw fit to keep the reception open, one doesn't seem to exist, leaving the Hôtel d'Angleterre, which is somewhat unfriendly, completely unhelpful and vastly overpriced for what it offers.
As a sign-off note, we wondered round the town for a fair while trying to find a restaurant that was actually open (bearing in mind that this is the weekend). We had an enormous meal, and Max now informs me that he's hungry again. Bring on breakfast...!
More tomorrow.
L+M
Saturday, 11 September 2010
Climb every mountain...
84 miles
Avg speed 12.4mph
Ascent 5433ft
Start St Jean de Luz
End Arette
Day 2
57 miles
Avg speed 9.2mph
Ascent 7131 ft
Start Arette
End Argeles-Gazost (or glasnost as Luke puts it)
Still alive (for the mothers)... Yesterday suffered from piss poor preparation: a disturbed night on a primitive train followed by one of those mean little "breakfasts" that continentals seem to specialise in. Despite that we turned in a respectable 84 miles. This was slightly further than we'd anticipated but we have google maps to thank for that :)
No words (or pictures) can convey the beauty of the landscape. It's mesmerising - think Sound of Music meets the Lake District. It's also breathtaking, and because we're both properly knackered this post will be short!
If yesterday was hilly, today went North Face of the Eiger. 2 big climbs: Col de Marie Blanque (9km, summit at 3396ft) and Col d'Aubisque (16.5km, topping out at 5607ft). And tomorrow we have 2 more: Col d'Aspin and the fabled Tourmalet.
Toodles,
L&M